Escape for a Roman holiday at Palazzo Ripetta
Emma Oxley discovers how Rome’s most intriguing independent luxury hotel is a very personal passion….
There are only a few independent luxury hotels in Centro Storico in Rome, and I found Palazzo Ripetta the most intriguing. A former convent, the building still exudes a certain spirit of the cloister, with events staged in their 17th century church, boasting vaulted ceilings, chapel, altar, and sunbeams illuminating a sculpture of Pope Innocent XI.
This private residence is a showcase of the great modernist architect Luigi Moretti and a gallery of art, exhibiting the highly discerning family’s private collection – the opening shot when you walk in being the magical form of an Arnaldo Pomodoro “Sphere,” while around the corner is a Giacomo Manzù bronze Cardinal, a piece of serious beauty.
Throughout, the Palazzo colour design is bold, the style is chic and personal, with not a cliché in sight. Bedrooms are both stylish and very easy to stay in – think velvet cushions, Murano glass chandeliers, crimson Alessi kettle and espresso machine, crystal in the lacquered cocktail cabinet – while the spacious bathrooms, with double-sized showers, had lotions by the sustainably-minded brand Ortigia. The turn-down was perfect for me, with age-defying serums and a large tin of amaretto biscuits.
My bedroom had high windows, where you could imagine the convent girls leaning out to contemplate the wide blue skies. The church courtyard below my window is now home to the al fresco Piazzetta, a place to chill on a hot summer day and dine casually. The funky playlist is perfectly curated to keep your mood in tune with the hour. I’ve been streaming it on Spotify since leaving.
Architect Moretti has made everything curvaceous, from ceiling cornicing to corridor corners. A lush black stair carpet flows gracefully between landings. Each hallway is a carefully constructed scene with high gloss floors, art deco runners, satin dark doors, and ivory walls.
At cocktail hour in the Baylon Bar, I was entertained with a gin tasting by Diane, the hotel’s head mixologist. Diane shared a real depth of knowledge which made the drink a zillion times more pleasurable. My ultimate selection was Del Professore, crafted in Italy, like most delicious things in the Palazzo.
The San Baylon dining room felt like a scene in Goodfellas, styled by Vogue. While the vibe was neighbourhood, the food was world class. The restaurant is named after the patron saint of pastry chefs and originator of Italy’s famous zabaglione. The dining experience opens with a savoury twist on this speciality and closes with a soupcon of the light, lemony dessert. The deft Patissiere Chef Roberta and Chef Christian create indulgent dishes that somehow let you leave the table feeling light.
Palazzo Ripetta has an excellent location on one of the oldest streets in Rome, two minutes from Piazza del Popolo. In a leisurely morning, I strolled to the Pantheon, along to the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, back along fashionable Via del Corso and refreshed in the Borghese gardens.
I dropped into a 15th century church to view a hidden Caravaggio and was back for lunch on the hotel’s Etere rooftop – chilled spumante, calamari, lime e aioli overlooking vintage tiled rooftops. For a stylish trip to Rome, I can’t recommend this elegant residence enough.
