Where wild beauty meets refined luxury – why Montenegro is the Adriatic’s best-kept secret
Montenegro may be Croatia’s diminutive neighbour, but the range of experiences offered is astounding. Emma Oxley discovers the many personalities of this Balkan beauty….
Sitting on a neat strip of coastline between Croatia and Albania, Montenegro has a population of just 620,000. Yet travellers can be on a sunlit ski slope in the morning and sipping cocktails by the Adriatic at sunset, as I did.
I began my trip in the Bay of Kotor, exploring the luxury resorts and marinas. The natural harbour is a dramatic series of bays framed by mountains, mirrored in the glassy waters. The entrances between bays are narrow – the Verige Strait leading to Perast is only 350 metres wide. In fact, four hundred years ago, the people defended themselves from pirates by raising an iron chain between peninsulas. Although it is a shame they don’t do that now and stop the cruise ships.
I stayed at the Lazure Hotel & Marina – a stylish conversion of an 18th century Venetian military hospital. While there are some original architectural features, the vibe is airy, contemporary living. I sensed the interior designer had thoroughly enjoyed creating spaces they would like to live in. The Lazure is also home to a multi-level spa with a 50-metre pool and sun terrace, with another pool on the resort’s private beach.
Cocktails to the rhythmic tap of halyards is one of my favourite pleasures. The Lazure Terrace, by its own marina, had a classy lineup of yachts, and excellent sushi. In fact, all dining was exceptional at the hotel; they have a talented chef.
I particularly appreciated the Lazure’s location, a pleasant stroll along the sea promenade to the old town of Herceg Novi. In high season there can be a crush of tourists at popular sights, but being nearby you can pick the right time and idle away aperitivo hour in a cobbled square, listening to a drift of notes from the music school.
Be sure to visit the walled city of Kotor, a UNESCO listed medieval town. Resident cats are especially treasured and lounge around with insouciance waiting to be stroked. Perast is another charming location on the bay, ornamented by Venetian and Baroque architecture. If you are staying, the Heritage Grand Perast Hotel, a restored 18th-century palace, exudes a welcoming warmth.
For a luxury escape with unrivalled wellbeing, I’d recommend the One&Only. Montenegro is where these perfectors of escapism first dipped their toes in European seas and unsurprisingly made a splash. Portonovi was a new marina development, which gave them a blank canvas architecturally, so they created landscapes inspired by Venetian grandeur.
Green springy lawns welcome children who can romp on their way to the Kids Club. There are no less than 22 pools throughout the resort, some exclusive to adults, others exclusive to your villa. Enticing dining includes Japanese fusion at Tapasake by the pool and Italian Sabia by the sea.
Meanwhile, the spa offers clinically developed Chenot Espace Programmes. The longer the programme, the healthier your life.
Without writing a list, I would say One&Only have perfected home away from home ergonomics. I have never slept better than on their German feather pillows. Interested in purchasing one, I found they retail at 350 Euros each (and there were four of them on my bed). Luxury is definitely in the details. The Lazure put a bath in the bedroom, One&Only put a chaise longue in the bathroom, which was stylish.
Montenegro is a small gem and a box of treasures. Wine tasting was a highlight of my visit, meeting independent winemakers who were passionate about their craft. Unlike other countries, Montenegro’s vineyards are dominated by indigenous grapes, particularly Vranac (“Black Stallion”). This produces a deep red wine with dense fruit flavours. Remarkably, Montenegro has one of the largest vineyards in Europe, Plantaze.
The “black” mountainsides of Montenegro are famously beautiful – named, by the way, for their dense pines that darken the slopes. Five national parks are criss-crossed by hiking trails. Nearly half is forested, providing a natural home to brown bears and grey wolves. The Tara River Canyon is vast, and at 82 kilometres, it is second only to the Grand Canyon in length, with staggering majestic cliffs soaring some 1,300 metres into the sky, while the crystal clear waters below are heaven for white water rafters of all levels.
I spent most of my time along Montenegro’s coastline, but I am intrigued to explore more of the country’s self-proclaimed wild beauty. Beyond the bay, the landscape of dramatic mountains, deep canyons and untamed national parks feels refreshingly undiscovered.
Montenegro is a destination of rare duality – effortlessly sophisticated, yet profoundly connected to nature – and as I left its shores, I found myself already planning my return, eager to explore the wilder side of one of Europe’s most captivating corners.
