In high spirits – cognacs, castles and an ultra-exclusive escape with Martell
By Maggie McMillan
When I touched down in the beautiful Cognac region in France, I hardly anticipated how interesting and impressive “The Martell Experience” would turn out to be. Extraordinary food and delicious cognacs were obviously a given. Martell’s new – and highly exclusive – dining and pairing experience, however, is about so much more than that. It’s about total immersion, impeccable hospitality and a wealth of knowledge in a stupendous setting, which is steeped in the history of the whole Cognac region.
Martell has opened the exquisite 18th century Château de Chanteloup – the original home of the Martell family – to the public for the first time, for a truly out-of-this-world experience. Built in 1715 and since then remodelled, the Château is classically beautiful. A tiny little deer herd nestled just by the front entrance as I arrived, as if placed there by some Renaissance painter. Everything in this stunningly beautiful setting was immaculate.
The experience started with a discreet but genuine welcome – something I’ve rarely experienced, even in the best hotels in the world. I then enjoyed drinks on the Château terrace, where I was offered cognac-based cocktails – both fruity and smoky, and both equally delicious. Following a short tour of the beautifully furnished Château, I was keen to see the dining room, especially designed for Martell’s new dining and pairing experience. Here an interesting, modern interior blends old with new, featuring a simply beautiful modern table and accessories against the backdrop of a huge wall tapestry.
This dining room is open to the kitchen, enabling guests to watch as the chefs prepare their exciting and intricate dishes. I was fortunate enough to be invited into the kitchen to watch them at very close quarters concocting their culinary masterpieces. An atmosphere of calm and precision prevailed! This is the most intimate and exclusive of dining and pairing experiences – for a maximum of six people only. This provided ample opportunity to ask questions of the very knowledgeable hosts, creating a genuine relaxing and unhurried ambiance.
The food on the dining menu is designed by Michelin starred chef Alexandre Mazzia with uniquely blended cognac pairings by Christophe Valtaud, Martell’s ninth generation Cellar Master. Alongside delicious champagne, fascinatingly the menu was accompanied by three cognac blends, each meticulously formulated to match the dishes, including a frozen cognac served with tantalising desserts.
Each course was a sensation, with favourites continuously changing throughout the meal. Any concerns regarding the prospect of 20 courses being just too much were blown out of the window. Courses varied in size, and some were minute – tiny, delectable nibbles, precisely arranged in a perfect small flower or forming fine intricate designs – some almost resembled still life sculptures, but all were artfully presented. Only the best ingredients were used in interesting and sometimes unexpected combinations. I left feeling pleasantly replete and very satisfied.
My experience, however, was far from over. A tour of the Martell cellars in Cognac was fascinating, elevated by the brand’s knowledgeable guides. It seems each guide undergoes a rigorous selection process and it shows! Their passion was infectious, as they explained the history of the Château and the Martell brand and, in some detail, the particular cognac production process, which uses no sediments, resulting in their fine flavours.
Finally, I was able to experience the re-opening of L’Indigo Bar, Martell’s iconic rooftop bar, launching for the summer season with Martell Master Mixologist Rémy Savage (pictured below) in residence. L’Indigo Bar boasts a stunning panoramic view of Cognac, whilst serving up a fresh new take on beloved cocktail classics.
To mark his residency, the award-winning mixologist has crafted a collection of creative cocktails through the lens of cognac. By turning to cognac as the base for old and new cocktail recipes, Rémy’s creations showcase the smoothness and complexity of iconic Martell blends, whilst simultaneously smashing all taste expectations in the process.
Overall, the attention to detail throughout my trip was extraordinary. This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, with amazing food and accompanying cognacs designed by the very best. I for one wouldn’t have missed it for the world!
