London Fashion Week AW15 By Charlotte India Smith
Every season, the bar is being raised and I cannot help but feel the pressure on British designers to keep up their reputation to produce what I feel is arguably more eccentric and quirkier than that of other fashion capitals. Lets face it, we don’t play it safe in London – you only have to look at the emerging talent at the Central Saint Martins show to know that – so take note of designer Matty Bovan. London was ranked the fashion capital of the world only a few years ago by a Global Language Monitor (which ranks fashionable cities by how often they appear on social media, amongst other means). I believe it comes from the creativity and the fact that the city is so multicultural; there really is something for everyone! So here’s a little taster of my favourite looks and trends for the coming Autumn/Winter Season….
I have to say, AW15 did not disappoint – “the thigh’s the limit” (literally!). Let’s kick-start this season with thigh highs – love ‘em or hate ‘em, they were heavily present. From the patent nudes at Fyodor Golan or the bright metallic boots at Marques’Almeida, not to mention the infamous shoe and accessory designer Sophia Webster, who had over-the-knees in leopard print and lace-ups all the way to the top. I’m quite excited that both she and the bright patent red booties at Ashish have made it okay (if not exactly glamorous), to be trashy this season.
Following on from this, several designers have incorporated the Glam Rock theme into their looks this season. Black and brightly coloured latex and leather were present in many shows; most notably Sibling (who also adorned models in fish nets, coats and no bras!) and Ashley Williams – which in her words was ‘‘sickly pink’’ meets black – whilst still keeping up with the trashy/glam vibe.
Shrimps, most known for her exquisite faux furs, also added a touch of black patent latex to her looks this year. There was also a little hint of Mongolian wool mixed up with her usual style, adding great texture to her pieces. House of Holland was also rocking it out for Autumn/Winter with oversized colourful Mongolian wool.
Fur-ther more, (faux) fur is still big – in fact, the bigger and bolder in colour, the better! Marques’ Almeida started the show with bright red faux fur; bright red being another common denominator throughout the shows. Ashish showed faux fur in a mix-up of animal print – who would have thought you could combine thigh highs, leopard print furs and embellished sequin lingerie, and still look this incredible?!
Talking of embellishments, if the looks weren’t full-on fur, they certainly were embellished with it – most noticeably Sibling who also kept up the vibrant colour theme with a tangerine dream! Ashish again ticked all the trend boxes this season – not only with sequinned lingerie, but also with the embellished denim that has just made a come-back. Of course, Marques’Almeida’s frayed hems should always get a mention, but I now must present you with my favourite: Faustine Steinmetz.
Now, we all have certain shows we most look forward but I do love it when a relatively new designer (since 2013) slaps you in the face with something so creatively exciting. Remember I mentioned that element of quirky and eccentric that sets London apart? Well, although French-born, I can see why Faustine Steinmetz’s presentation was here in London. The use of textured brushed wool and paint to recreate denim-like garments was so clever. Denim will never go out – fact – but I have to say, come Autumn/Winter this year, faux-denim is definitely what I’ll be in!