London Collections: Menswear By Rosalind Milani Gallieni
Monday 7th January
London is indeed the home of menswear; think Savile Row and classic tailoring. GQ editor Dylan Jones explains: “(London)…invented youth culture, and it continues to produce the best young designers in the world. Why would a menswear designer choose to show anywhere else?”
On the first full day of shows for the second LC:M, the celebrations kicked off with a presentation by Belstaff. With the likes of David Gandy, Tommy Hilfiger and Jodie Kidd all checking out the jackets, it’s no surprise that the show was received with great praise. Chief creative officer Martin Cooper describes the inspiration behind the new collection as “amazing winter motorcycle jackets and aviation pieces that Belstaff produced during the war.”
Lou Dalton was up next at The Hospital Club show space at Endell Street with an eclectic mix of two tone safari jackets, bombers and oversized tartan, boiled wool suits, mohair knits and patent trenches.
Over to swimwear specialists Orlebar Brown at 7a Langley Street and who better than Tinie Tempah to be sat front row to watch the ‘Miami vibes’ cruise down the catwalk.
Benedict Cumberbatch sat alongside fellow British actors Dominic Cooper, Jack Fox and TV presenter Rick Edwards at the Bally presentation and John Smedley offers up roll necks and ultra fine fairisle knits before lunchtime saw the hotly anticipated Topman show at New Oxford Street for an influx of arctic white outerwear. Gordon Richardson, Topman Design’s creative director, explained that “an early gentleman explorer” was central to this look for next autumn.
Up next was Lee Roach back at The Hospital Club. He explains his new collection is designed for “the uncompromising man” with never-disappointing, structured monochrome.
Next was CP Company, before the annual London Collections: Men launch event and the MAN showcase. Showing this year included the ever-popular Agi & Sam, who says the look is inspired by the Marquess of Bath, with a modern take on the tux, faux-fur bombers at Astrid Andersen and Craig Green.
Newcomers Bobby Abley and Kit Neale offered plenty of sportswear and inspired knits but the highlight of the afternoon was surely awarded to Joseph Turvey at Fashion East and the added accessories onstage in the form of real life puppies to accompany the 101 Dalmatian prints.
Up next was the always-impressive Hackett and even more impressive location at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Designer Jeremy Hackett explains: “With the revival of cabaret in London, the style reflects the glamour of the 20s and 30s,” offering the best of British.
Tuesday 8th January
Day 2 of LC:M and first up this morning was the always star-studded, invitation-only Burberry presentation. Never one to disappoint, the show offered up the usual quintessentially British heritage style.
Next up was Margaret Howell. She explains how she “…continues to be inspired by fabric,” which is obvious from the plethora of berets, pea coats and knits on display.
Up next was Aitor Throup’s surreal show, with a keen eye for detail in the exquisite tailoring.
Other highlights included Nicole Farhi at George Street and the launch of Mr Porter’s London Collections line. The online menswear retailer has teamed up with four LC:M designers: Matthew Miller, Richard Nicoll’s yellow merino knits, Sibling and Katie Eary graphic prints.
Jonathan Saunders offered yet another stunning show of bold colours at Southampton Row and a seasonal treat courtesy of Richard James: scarves printed with autumn leaves, matching bobble hats and scarves paired with thick winter knitwear.
Up next on the schedule was Christopher Shannon, a London fashion week staple and always well received. He explains: “I am always keen to bring new finishes and processes to the way we do things and up the quality as much as possible,” obvious with an eclectic mix of sportswear and Kickers boots.
Then onto the Savile Row presentation; styled by GQ’s Jo Levin, the presentation at Spencer House showcased forty perfect examples of Savile Row’s finest tailoring – from black tie to military dress.
Never one to blend it, the next location on the list was the epitome of luxurious fashion, Harrods of Knightsbridge, for the hotly anticipated Vivienne Westwood’s MAN show. Expected graphic, vulgar, bold and outrageous designs that we have come to expect from the eclectic Dame.
Into the evening saw Oliver Spencer offering some beautiful footwear – tasselled loafers and boots, plus classic shearling jackets but the highlight of Day 2 at LC:M saw the Alexander McQueen evening at The McQueen Show, which debuted with a striking Autumn/Winter 2013 collection.
Wednesday 9th January
The final day of LC:M kicked off with an excited buzz while waiting for the iconic fashion designer Tom Ford, who was presenting menswear in London for the first time this year. The award-winning designer, and the man behind James Bond’s infamous sleek style in Skyfall presented his A/W13 collection. He explains to The Telegraph: “My clothes are designed with an international customer in mind, and London is one of the most international cities on the planet.” On show were classic trench coats and printed roll necks, stunning suits checks and beautiful loafers. Worth the wait!
But first, kicking off the morning at the BFC show space on New Oxford Street was the BFA-winning Christopher Raeburn, who led with his strongest hand: outerwear, followed by the likes of JW Anderson embracing all things feminine with male skirts, bustiers and boots, Hardy Amies showcasing autumnal checks and soft cable knit jumpers, and E Tautz’ orange and grey palette and plenty of check.
Then it was off to Covent Garden Odeon Cinema for Baartmans & Siegel’s presentation of bold, athletic outerwear and tweedy suits.
Lunchtime presented stripes and more stripes at Shaun Samson before heading back to the Hospital Club for Katie Eary and a collection of rose print topcoats, then onto the Old Sorting Office for Matthew Miller with a praised collection of emblazoned knitwear and oversized rucksacks.
Xander Zhou, Angelo Galasso in SW3 and Nutters of Savile Row x Peter Werth on Coventry Street complete season 2 of this year’s LC:M.
Wallpaper* hosted an intimate cocktail at Hauser & Wirth to celebrate a unique collaboration between Annabelle Selldorf, Hardy Amies, Spencer Hart and Richard James and that marks the end of a successful second year for the British Fashion Council, highlighting just how far menswear has come in the world of fashion. Until next year!