From wine to truffles – a taste of Italy with La Rustichella
“Truffles… are a luxury that make life worth living; hidden treasures of the earth that bring pleasure to the soul.” – George Sand, French novelist
By Fiona Sanderson
For centuries, truffles have been celebrated in culinary traditions as a symbol of luxury and exclusivity. With their unique flavour, truffles are rare and difficult to cultivate, and only grow under very specific conditions with short growing seasons. Truffles grow underground, making them harder to detect and, just like diamonds and gold, are not easily found, which only adds to their allure. Animals like boars or specially trained dogs are relied upon to locate them, guided by their strong aroma.
With this in mind, I jumped at the chance to visit Italy to go truffle hunting and meet the Brugnoli family – owners of La Rustichella, whose passion for truffles led them to find innovative ways of using this exclusive fungi in a range of products. Since it was founded in the ’80s, the company has now become a global icon of culinary excellence today.
The story started in 1986, when Sergio Brugnoli and his wife Maria created the best black truffle pate on the market. Sergio was passionate about creating amazing products in partnership with truffle hunters, with the highest quality ingredients. Now the products are sold in five countries as the global appetite for truffle grows, and the range has grown to 34 delicious truffle products (we should know, as we tried them!).
Arriving at Turin airport on a crisp November evening, I was driven through the foggy region of Piedmont, renowned for its white truffles and lush vineyards, to reach Agriturismo Malabaila, in Canale – a charming farmhouse-turned-hotel nestled deep in the heart of the countryside. Surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, this idyllic retreat offered the perfect blend of tranquillity and authentic olde-world eccentric Italian charm.
After a good night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, I set off for a wine tour to meet Daniela Olivera and her husband Luigi, owners of Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero. Situated in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Roero, Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero has been producing wine since 1950. Originally a mixed farm, it became a wine estate in the 1970s when Daniela’s parents transitioned from cattle and crops to specialising in winemaking. Today, Daniela and Luigi continue this legacy, producing Roero DOCG wines and Spumante from the region’s rich, biodiverse soil.
Roero’s geological history, dating back over three million years, contributes to the distinctiveness of their wines, which were utterly delicious (although the estate is not just about vines and winemaking, however; it also includes hazelnuts, woodlands, and meadows). One of their top wines, Sant’Anna, is cultivated from 50-year-old vines on a picturesque hilltop vineyard near the church where Daniela and Luigi were married, giving the wine an additional layer of personal passion and significance. Their dedication to both each other and their craft is reflected in the care they take to cultivate their wines, making my visit to the estate a memorable experience.
From here, they took me into the forests with the truffle hunters – the part of the adventure I was so looking forward to – which is usually conducted at night. Primarily due to the behaviour of truffle-producing fungi and the conditions that help them to grow, truffles are most active and productive during the cooler night-time hours, which means they release their scent more strongly under the cover of darkness. However, the dogs were able to find some white truffles on my visit, which was pretty exciting.
The day was complete with a special dinner at Le Aie, Castagnito. You knew the minute you walked into this cosy and beautifully decorated restaurant that you were in for a culinary delight. A must on anyone’s tour of a taste of Italy!
Early the following morning, I flew to Rome en-route to San Cesareo, to meet Maria Brugnoli and her daughter, Rita, who run La Rustichella Truffles, for a tour of their state-of-the-art factory and a meal in their Love Truffles Restaurant, adjacent to their factory.
With an annual turnover of over €15 million, the company’s list of prestigious truffle products was impressive and, according to Giovanni Intilla, their brand manager, their popularity is due to the product’s high-quality ingredient – so of course, I couldn’t wait to try them in their restaurant.
I was warmly welcomed by Maria and Rita for an utterly delicious six-course lunch featuring both black and white truffles, each dish prepared with love and attention by their talented chefs. The fresh ingredients were crafted into a modern yet respectful take on Italian fine dining, blending tradition with innovation. Each dish was centred around La Rustichella’s premium range of truffle products and paired with a wine from Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero.
This charming restaurant embraces the luxurious essence of truffles, a quintessential Italian delicacy, cultivated and crafted with care to ensure the highest quality. The spacious, inviting atmosphere enhances the experience, offering a menu that includes everything from breakfast to after-dinner drinks. Each dish is meticulously prepared, with a focus on fresh ingredients and precision cooking, including the use of a state-of-the-art oven that guarantees perfect results — even for smoked meats. Love Truffles is truly a celebration of Italy’s finest flavours, offering a genuine taste of the country, and a true taste of Italy.
Despite having visited Italy many times previously, my trip to La Rustichella made me truly appreciate the passion and care that goes into Italian cuisine, and the uniqueness of the flavours of this beautiful country.
Despite having visited Italy many times previously, my trip to La Rustichella made me truly appreciate the passion and care that goes into Italian cuisine, and the uniqueness of the flavours of this beautiful country. Of course, I couldn’t leave empty-handed, and so, armed with some of La Rustichella’s finest truffle products, I arrived back in London only to belatedly remember that I was supposed to be hosting a dinner party. The truffle is often dubbed “the king of the table” and I think that this is a very fitting epithet. Certainly, my assembled dinner guests were ordering their own La Rustichella products following our meal, in the hopes of getting their hands on a little taste of Italy.
